ISSN (Print) - 0012-9976 | ISSN (Online) - 2349-8846

A+| A| A-

Anglo-Indian Identity through the Culinary Lens

Food writing can function as an alternative mode in historiography, making visible the history of the Anglo-Indian community.

In The Trotter-nama: A Chronicle (1988), I Allan Sealy historicises the evolution of Anglo-Indian cuisine as fusion food. He offers an elaborate description of diverse local and foreign agencies that the Great Trotter, the fountainhead of the Anglo-Indian community in the novel, recruited in his kitchen to introduce a unique culinary tradition. In Vegemite Vindaloo (2006), David McMahon, a diasporic Anglo-Indian, juxtaposes the Australian food Vegemite with the Portuguese and Anglo-Indian curry vindaloo as a culinary metaphor for representing the doubly hyphenated identity of an Australian Anglo-Indian. In The Secret Vindaloo (2014), Keith Butler, an Anglo-Indian in New Zealand, sarcastically writes that vindaloo is a secret recipe to represent the invisibility of Anglo-Indian immigrants in multicultural Australia.

Why did these writers all choose cuisine to represent the Anglo-Indian cultural identity? Using the culinary as a mode of representation is not limited to Anglo-Indian writers. The Kolkata branch of the All India Anglo-Indian Association announced in 2018 that it would organise a winter carnival where members would cook and sell typical Anglo-Indian fare such as pork balichow, sausage curry, yellow rice and meat ball curry. In the same year, the Forum of Anglo-Indian Women in Chennai organised a fair called the “Anglo-Indian Craft and Cuisine.”

Dear Reader,

To continue reading, become a subscriber.

Explore our attractive subscription offers.

Click here


To gain instant access to this article (download).

Pay INR 50.00

(Readers in India)

Pay $ 6.00

(Readers outside India)

Updated On : 31st Jul, 2022
Back to Top